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The history of distilling in Poland: from okowita to bioethanol

From the ‘okowita’ of 1405 to bioethanol: the history of distilling in Poland – the liquor tax, the spirits monopoly and the standard for ‘luxury spirits’ still in force today.

Distilling in Poland has over six hundred years of documented history – from the court records of Sandomierz dating from 1405 to modern distilleries producing ethyl alcohol i bioethanol. Traces of this history can still be found today: in the law, the language and quality standards.

Why the history of distilling in Poland is the history of the economy

The oldest known record of the word „vodka” comes from court records in Sandomierz dating from 1405 – and, interestingly, it did not refer to an alcoholic drink, but to a medicinal preparation. The name „okowita” itself, which for centuries was used to describe the product of a distillery, is the Polish adaptation of the Latin aqua vitae, or the water of life. The alchemical roots of distillation can still be seen in the terminology used today: the Latin spiritus vini – the ‘spirit of wine’ – gave its name to spirit.

The scale of early distilling is surprising. Inventories of royal estates record grain distilleries as early as the 15th century, and in the 16th century there were 161 so-called distilling stills operating in the Łęczyca region alone, and 35 in Kalisz. These were establishments usually run by a single family, producing spirits with an alcohol content of barely 30% (portalhodowcy.pl).

The real economic breakthrough came with the liquor licence privilege, which the nobility obtained in the 1570s. It consisted of three elements: the right to produce alcoholic beverages, the right to serve them, and – though it sounds implausible today – the right to compel one’s own peasants to make purchases at the lord’s inn. The liquor monopoly became one of the main sources of income for the manor, and it was this, rather than a fashion for alcoholic drinks, that determined the density of the network of distilleries across Poland.

When wars laid waste to towns and villages in the 17th century, chroniclers of the time bitterly noted that the Republic’s entire industry and trade had been reduced to „the production of spirits and beer, and the running of taverns”. Distilling proved to be the most resilient sector of the Old Polish economy.

From rye to potatoes, from the alembic to the distillation column

The raw materials revolution

Until around 1830, the main raw material used by Polish distilleries was grain, primarily rye. The potato came into the picture at the end of the 18th century – and, significantly for us, the distilleries of Greater Poland were the first to switch to it, ahead of the rest of Poland by a good quarter of a century. The maths was simple: a morga of potatoes yielded significantly more spirit than a morga of rye. The tradition of processing agricultural produce has continued uninterrupted in Greater Poland – today, its natural continuation is the distillery we run purchase of cereals, including dry and wet maize, which has replaced the potato as the king of raw materials.

It is worth bearing in mind that the potato blight of 1847 halted the industry’s growth more effectively than any regulations – following the blight, the number of distilleries in the Kingdom of Poland began to fall steadily, and the market underwent its first wave of consolidation.

The technological revolution

The first half of the 19th century brought about a radical change in distilling techniques. Brick-built distilleries were established, the prestige of the distiller’s trade increased, and primitive alembics gave way to Pistorius stills, and later to rectification columns. The pace of modernisation was impressive: by the beginning of the 20th century, 92.5% of distilleries in the Kingdom of Poland were already operating using modern distillation systems, whilst only 7.5% were still using the old Pistorius stills – according to research by Professor Wiesław Pusia (Rural Notebooks, 2016). The principle behind the column’s operation has not changed since then – what has changed is the scale, the automation and the purity of the product, which we describe in more detail in the section on its characteristics agricultural distillate.

Wielkopolska played a special role in this modernisation. The traditions of distilling in Poznań date back to 1823, whilst the distillery in Turwia, near Kościan – associated with the Chłapowski family – has a history documented in sources dating back to the 18th century (AMU Repository). The year 1905 saw the establishment of the National School of Distilling and Fermentation – distilling had become a fully-fledged engineering discipline (PWN Encyclopaedia).

How much vodka was consumed in nineteenth-century Poland?

Here we come to figures that today’s reader would find hard to accept without batting an eyelid. Production peaked in the mid-19th century: according to journalists of the time, each inhabitant of Warsaw consumed 6 garnce of okowita per year, or around 12 litres of 80-per-cent vodka. In the countryside, the figure was 3 garnce per person. In 1884, there were 2,094 distilleries operating in the Kingdom of Poland alone. A hundred years ago, during the interwar period, there were still around 1,200 in operation.

PeriodNumber of distilleriesContext
16th century.161 boilers in the Łęczyca region alonesmall family-run distilleries, okowita ~30%
18842094 (Kingdom of Poland)a peak following a wave of concentration
the 1930s.~1,200 farm distilleriesquotas of the State Spirits Monopoly
the 1990s.~900 farm distilleriesstart of sector blackout
todayseveral dozen active establishments [TO BE VERIFIED – exact number according to KOWR]concentration in large industrial distilleries

During the interwar period, an administrative chapter was added to this history: the 1924 Act established the State Spirits Monopoly, which regulated the production of agricultural distilleries under a quota system. After 1945, this model was taken over and tightened by the planned economy – distilleries supplied their raw spirit to state-run rectification plants, whilst the trade in spirit remained the preserve of the Polmos enterprises until the 1990s.

What aspects of this story still apply today? The standard for luxury spirit

The most enduring remnant of the monopoly era turned out to be the quality classification of rectified spirit. The Polish Standard PN-A-79522 divides rectified spirit into three classes: standard, premium and luxury – and it is from these that the names of the most recognisable Polish vodka brands were derived. When, following the break-up of Polmos, producers disputed the rights to these designations, the Supreme Administrative Court ruled in 2008 that „rectified spirit” is a generic term describing the production process, rather than a fanciful trade mark (rp.pl).

Rectified spirit class according to PNMinimum powerCharacteristics
Ordinary96.0% vol.higher permissible levels of pollution
Exquisite96.5% vol.stricter limits on aldehydes, esters and fusel oils
Luxury96.5% vol.the strictest pollution limits, complete sensory neutrality

For B2B buyers, this classification remains a practical language for specifications – although today it operates in parallel with EU requirements for ethyl alcohol of agricultural origin and pharmacopoeial standards. In our product range, this corresponds to the distinction between food-grade spirit, REN-grade alcohol of a higher purity and pharmaceutical alcohol. History has come full circle in another respect too: the old distillery used to return the stillage to local farms as animal feed and fertiliser – this is precisely the model we are implementing today on an industrial scale, processing the stillage into Fermrol organic fertiliser and feed ingredients. You can read more about our own three-generation distilling traditions in The history of IMA Poland.

Frequently asked questions

When was vodka first mentioned in Poland?
The oldest known record of the word „vodka” comes from court records in Sandomierz dating from 1405. At that time, the term referred to medicinal and cosmetic preparations, not to an alcoholic drink. Over the following centuries, the drink was known as ‘okowita’ – from the Latin aqua vitae, which means „the water of life”.

What was the liquor tax?
Propination was a privilege granted to the nobility in the 16th century, encompassing the exclusive right to produce alcoholic beverages, to serve them, and to compel their subjects to make purchases at the manor tavern. It constituted a significant source of income for manors and was the main driving force behind the development of manorial distilling right up until the 19th century.

Since when have Polish distilleries been processing potatoes?
Distilleries in Greater Poland were the first to switch to processing potatoes towards the end of the 18th century; other regions followed suit at the beginning of the 19th century. Prior to that, rye had been the main raw material. Today, maize is the dominant raw material used by industrial distilleries in Poland.

What is the difference between standard rectified spirit and premium rectified spirit?
According to the Polish Standard PN-A-79522, standard rectified spirit has a minimum strength of 96.0% by volume, whilst premium and luxury rectified spirits have a minimum strength of 96.5% by volume. The luxury class entails the strictest limits on impurities – including aldehydes, esters, fusel oils and methanol – as well as complete neutrality in terms of the product’s taste and aroma.

How many distilleries were operating in Poland before the war, and how many are operating today?
During the interwar period, there were around 1,200 farm distilleries in operation, and in 1884, there were 2,094 in the Kingdom of Poland alone. Today, only a few dozen distilleries remain in operation, and production is concentrated in large industrial distilleries with their own rectification and dehydration facilities.

How does a farm distillery differ from an industrial one?
An agricultural distillery is a small facility attached to a farm, producing agricultural distillate (raw spirit) from local raw materials. An industrial distillery carries out the entire process: fermentation, distillation, rectification and dehydration, supplying ethyl alcohol for food, pharmaceutical and fuel applications on a wholesale scale.

Summary

Six hundred years of Polish distilling is a history of constant adaptation: of raw materials, techniques and regulations. The modern industry has grown out of this tradition – with rectification columns instead of alembics and bioethanol instead of spirits, but with the same approach to processing local agricultural produce. If you are looking for a supplier of ethyl alcohol or bioethanol from a distillery that continues the distilling traditions of Greater Poland, contact us.

There is a provision in Polish law that has survived the monarchy, the Partitions, two world wars, the People’s Republic of Poland and the political transition. It does not concern borders, taxes or the military. It concerns… the purity of spirit. The classification into ‘ordinary’, ‘select’ and ‘luxury’ spirit – introduced in interwar Poland – remains in force in our country to this day, probably as the last classification system of its kind in the world. To understand where it came from and why, for decades, the highest purity class has been associated here with potatoes, we need to go back six hundred years.